Yakima's FrontLoader is a wheel-on roof rack. The front wheel drops into a two-piece hoop, a red dial clamps it tight, and a ratchet strap holds the back wheel in a sliding tray. Nothing touches the frame, which is the main reason I bought one in the first place. It doesn't care about thru-axles, disc rotors, carbon or odd suspension layouts either.
My first FrontLoader has lived on sedans, SUVs and station wagons over the last five years, on a mix of aftermarket bars. It now sits on Thule WingBars on my Polestar 4. The second one came home from 99 Bikes yesterday, on sale for $230, because my kids now need their own spot on the roof. It went straight out of the box and onto the car for a 24-inch kids' bike on its first trip today.
Both FrontLoaders side by side on the Polestar 4
A quick disclosure before I get into it: I bought both racks with my own money. At the time of writing I have no affiliate or brand relationship with Yakima, 99 Bikes or anyone else in the bike industry, and nobody has any input into my opinions.
Who is the FrontLoader for?
It makes the most sense for riders and families with a mix of bikes, from 20-inch kids' bikes up to trail and enduro bikes, who want to load without pulling a front wheel off and without anything clamping a carbon frame. Swapping between a kid's bike and a full-size bike takes a few seconds.
It makes less sense if you ride a full-power e-MTB and want to take it more than a few minutes to the trail, or if you own a Large or bigger 29er and don't want to deal with the end cap issue I describe below. Those riders should look at Yakima's HighRoad or a towbar rack instead.
Yakima FrontLoader specs
Model: Yakima FrontLoader (AU, #8002104)
Price: AU$369 at Yakima AU (RRP $399). I paid $230 on sale at 99 Bikes
Rack weight: 5.9 kg
Wheel sizes: 20" to 29"
Tyre width: Up to 3" (US listings say 2.7" for 29" wheels). I have used up to 2.6" on 29" wheels
Max bike weight: 18 kg at 46 cm+ crossbar spread, 13.6 kg at 41 cm+
Crossbar spread: 41 cm to 122 cm
Max wheelbase: 48" / 1,219 mm (US listings, not stated on the AU page)
Crossbars: Round, square (up to 38 mm deep), factory and aero
Locks: Two SKS key locks (one stops the front crossbar mount being unwound, one on the bike cable), included in the current AU version
Pricing changes often, so check boostedmtb.com for live pricing and current deals. Specs from Yakima AU and US retailer listings.
Value: 10/10
At $230 it's a bargain, and it's still fair at full price
I paid $230 for my second FrontLoader at 99 Bikes, against $369 direct from Yakima AU. At that price I didn't bother shopping around, and after five years with the first one I didn't feel I needed to.
The obvious step up is Yakima's own HighRoad, which takes heavier bikes, longer wheelbases and wider tyres. If you regularly carry big 29ers or e-MTBs, it's the better rack. But it costs a lot more than I paid, and for kids' bikes and lighter trail bikes, the FrontLoader does the job very well.
One small win on the new version: the two SKS lock cores now come pre-installed. On my first rack they were an extra cost, and I never bothered buying them. The only money I've spent since was about $30 on a replacement rear wheel tray (more on that below).
Ease of use: 9/10
Front wheel in, twist the dial, ratchet the back wheel, done
The new rack was ready straight out of the box. Pop it onto the bars, tighten the mounts, and it's on. There's a big range of adjustment for where the rear crossbar clamp sits along the base, and it simply slides along. I've moved my first rack between quite a few cars with different bar spacing and never had trouble lining it up. Yakima quotes a crossbar spread of 41 cm to 122 cm.
Loading is where the FrontLoader shines. Once the front wheel is in the hoop, the bike stands up on its own. That gives you a free hand to sort out the back wheel, which matters a lot when you're holding a heavy bike above your head.
My technique on taller cars: push the front wheel into the hoop first, with your back hand already placed low enough on the bike to lift the rear wheel up onto the tray once the front is in. On an SUV or a taller sedan, it's hard work with a heavy bike. But it's no harder than any other roof rack I've used, and the secure front hoop makes it feel safer than most.
Switching between bikes takes seconds. Slide the front wheel mechanism down to suit the wheel size, slide the rear tray across, and you're off. Going from a 20-inch Norco Storm to an XL YT Capra needs no tools and no instructions.
Stability: 7/10
It wobbles enough to look worrying, but it has never let go
I won't pretend otherwise: bikes move around on the FrontLoader. Lighter bikes are calmer, but my XL Capra sways a fair bit, and the e-MTBs moved noticeably more again. A lot of that movement is in the tyres, but some of it comes from everywhere, including the Thule bars themselves. No single part has excessive play.
The worst of it comes on trailhead access roads better suited to a 4x4 than a "Coupe" EV. There the bike rocks around violently enough that it makes me feel quite uneasy. But... it's happened countless times, and I've never had a bike shift on the rack, loosen, or look like popping off the bars.
Is the movement by design? Yakima doesn't say so in its specs, so treat this as my read rather than fact. Because the rack only holds the tyres, the tyres act as springs, and some movement is the trade-off for never clamping the frame or fork. Owners on forums say the same thing: one MTBR poster found most of the movement was in the tyres, not the rack. I can't say it makes the rack last longer, but after five years mine shows no sign of fatigue.
It isn't a universal experience. An REI reviewer claims their bike came off at highway speed. I can't see how their rack was set up, but it's a good reason to check the dial and strap are tight before every drive.
The glass roof on my Polestar turned out to be an unexpected bonus. I can see the bike the whole drive, which means I can check the mounts at a glance (they've always looked solid), and I'm never going to forget it's up there before driving into a garage... I hope!
Compatibility: 6/10
The weight and wheelbase limits are real, and modern bikes are outgrowing them
This is the FrontLoader's biggest weakness, and where my experience matters most. Here's what I've put on it:
Scott Ransom eRide 920, Large (29", ~22 kg battery out, ~1,287 mm wheelbase): over both limits. Rear tray sits hard against the end cap. Lots of wobble
YT Capra 29, XL (29", ~16 kg, ~1,256 mm): over the wheelbase limit. Fits with the end cap in place, but pops it out when unloading
Merida eOne-Sixty, Large (27.5", ~19 kg battery out, ~1,230 mm): over the weight limit. More wobble; outside the stated capacity
Canyon Torque CF, Large (27.5", ~15 kg, ~1,219 mm): no issues
Giant STP 24 hardtail (24"): no issues
Commencal Ramones 24 (24"): no issues
Norco Storm 20 (20"): no issues
Wheelbases are manufacturer figures for the model years I own; check your own bike's geometry chart.
Wheelbase. My XL Capra physically fits on the new rack with the original end cap in place, but its stated wheelbase exceeds the limit quoted above. Physical fit does not establish that the combination is suitable. The rear wheel tray ends up pushed hard against the end cap’s retaining knob. When I unload the bike and the rear wheel rolls back, it takes the tray with it and pops the end cap out. It happened the very first time I used the new rack.
My XL YT Capra on the new FrontLoader, with the original end cap still in place
The end cap popped out after unloading the Capra, on the very first trip with the new rack
The same thing happened on my original rack, except I didn't notice. The end cap popped out as I unloaded, and I drove around without it. With no bike on the rack and nothing to stop it, the rear tray eventually slid off the back and I lost it on the road. A replacement tray cost about $30.
With my bike strapped in, I have not had the rear tray move. That observation does not establish that an oversized bike or modified rack is safe. Follow the manufacturer’s fit and load limits; the loose end cap and the risk of losing the empty rear tray are additional problems I experienced.
On the old rack, rather than refitting a new end cap, I fitted a thick cable tie as an end stop. That gave me the extra couple of centimetres the long bikes need, and it's been working perfectly for three years. It's my workaround, not something Yakima approves, so check it regularly. Shorter bikes will never need it.
My XL Capra on the original rack, with the cable tie end stop in place of the end cap
Weight. I have carried both e-MTBs with the batteries out, putting them 1 to 4 kg over the 18 kg limit. I noticed more wobble than with lighter bikes and never felt comfortable. Those trips were outside the rack’s stated capacity. I do not recommend exceeding it, regardless of journey length or road conditions.
Tyres. The stock rear strap has handled everything I've tried, up to 2.6-inch tyres. Some owners report the strap being too short on 2.4s, but I haven't had that problem.
Durability: 9/10
Five years outside, and all it has to show is faded plastic
I haven't looked after my first FrontLoader well. It's spent long stretches left on the car, out in the weather. The black plastic has faded a little, and that's about it: no rust, no corrosion, no cracked parts, no slop in the hoop or the dial.
The only failure was the lost end cap and rear tray, and that was down to my long bikes popping the end cap out rather than wear. Keeping the rack in the garage between trips would keep it looking newer for longer, but I've been impressed by how well it's held up with very little care.
Noise: 8/10
No whistle, just the usual rush of wind
It adds wind noise, as any roof rack does, but there's no whistle. It's a normal rush of wind, and honestly the Thule bars seem to make more noise than the rack itself.
Security: 6/10
Fine for a quick stop, not for leaving overnight
There are two key locks. The first locks the front mount so it can't be unwound, which means nobody can take the carrier off the roof bars. The second is on a shortish cable that loops through your frame and locks the bike to the carrier. Together they'll stop an opportunist and slow down anyone who has come prepared, while drawing a lot of attention. I'm happy to leave a bike up there in a supermarket car park while I grab a post-ride kombucha. I wouldn't leave it unattended for long periods of time.
Five years apart: what's changed?
As far as I can tell, very little. The lock cores are now included, and that's the only difference I can spot between my five-year-old rack and the one I bought yesterday. Considering how well the old one has held up, I'm fine with that.
Overall rating: 8/10
The best value roof rack I've used, as long as your bike fits inside its limits
After five years, a lot of rough access roads and very little care, my original FrontLoader still does exactly what it did on day one. It's quick to load, it holds everything from a 20-inch kids' bike to an XL enduro bike without touching the frame, and the only part I've had to replace cost about $30.
It is not perfect. The stated load limit rules out any bike that exceeds it, even with the battery out. Large and XL 29ers can also exceed the quoted wheelbase limit and push the rear tray against the end cap, which can pop out when unloading. I have experienced visible movement, especially with heavier bikes; the fact that mine has stayed attached does not extend its rated capacity.
If it had the HighRoad's wheelbase and weight capacity, it would be a 10/10. But for $230 I'm not complaining. I liked the first one enough to buy the same thing again, and that says more than any score.
Yakima FrontLoader FAQ
Can the Yakima FrontLoader carry an e-bike?
Only if the bike, crossbar spread and installation meet the manufacturer’s requirements. The stated maximum is 18 kg with at least 46 cm crossbar spread, or 13.6 kg with at least 41 cm. My earlier use with heavier e-MTBs was outside those limits and is not a recommendation.
What is the maximum wheelbase for the Yakima FrontLoader?
US listings give 48 inches (about 1,219 mm), though the Australian product page doesn't list it. Overall bike length matters too, so a 27.5-inch bike can fit where a 29er with a similar wheelbase won't. My XL Capra fits, but only just.
Will a Large or XL 29er enduro bike fit?
Check your exact bike against the rack’s fit limits. My XL YT Capra physically fits, but exceeds the wheelbase quoted above and presses the rear tray against the end cap. Unloading has popped that cap out. The cable tie on my old rack is an unapproved modification; it does not establish suitability for a longer bike. Choose a carrier rated for your bike rather than relying on my workaround.
Does the Yakima FrontLoader fit kids' bikes?
Yes. It takes 20-inch to 29-inch wheels, and I've used it with 20-inch and 24-inch kids' bikes without any problems. Adjusting it between a kid's bike and an adult bike takes a few seconds.
Is it normal for the bike to wobble on the FrontLoader?
Some movement is normal because the rack only holds the tyres, and a lot of the movement comes from the tyres flexing. Heavier and longer bikes move more. Mine has never come loose in five years, but always check the dial and rear strap are tight before you drive.
Does the FrontLoader come with locks?
Yes. The current Australian version (#8002104) includes two SKS key locks. One stops the front mount being unwound, so the carrier can't be taken off the roof bars, and the other is on a short cable that loops through your frame. My older rack didn't come with the lock cores, and they were an extra cost.
Yakima FrontLoader or HighRoad?
The HighRoad takes heavier bikes, longer wheelbases and wider tyres, so it's the better choice for big 29ers and e-MTBs. The FrontLoader is lighter and much cheaper, and it handles kids' bikes and lighter trail bikes very well.
Is my second-hand FrontLoader part of the recall?
Yakima recalled some FrontLoaders shipped between March and December 2010. Recalled units have four wheel positions on the front hoop, while later units have five. If you're buying an old one second-hand, it's worth checking.
Sources
Yakima AU FrontLoader product page
Yakima AU: FrontLoader vs HighRoad
US retailer FrontLoader spec listing
Singletrack: e-bikes and the Yakima FrontLoader
MTBR: Yakima wobble thread
REI FrontLoader reviews
Bicycle Retailer: 2011 FrontLoader recall
YT Capra 29 geometry (enduro-mtb.com)
Scott Ransom eRide geometry (EMTB Forums)
Merida eOne-Sixty L geometry (Bike Insights)
Canyon Torque CF L geometry (Bike Insights)
Written and photographed by Tom Ford for Boosted Media
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